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Restaurant review: Omakase at The Grandstand in Singapore

Omakase

200 Turf Club Road, #01-05 The Grandstand

6763 2698 | omakaseburger.com

 

A “smash burger”, for those not in the know, is one which begins life as a neat, round ball of ground beef but is then placed on a hot grill and mercilessly pummelled into a much flatter patty, all crispy and caramelised and the juices sealed within.

As far as food goes, it’s intense. Appropriately, the bloke behind the smash burgers at new eatery Omakase, Cheng Hsin Yao, is a competent Muay Thai boxer and judo player whose Classics degree at the University of Chicago included a course called “Blood, Honour and Glory: A Study of Manliness in Ancient Greece and Rome”.

For all that, Hsin Yao is a pretty mellow guy. And he makes a fantastic quarter-pounder-style burger, using USDA Angus beef, a secret sauce with 13 ingredients, hardwood-smoked bacon and imported American cheese.

Omakase offers five styles of burger: four beef and one chicken (if you ask nicely, they can whip up a ratatouille-based veggie burger, too). I had the ultimate burger ($17.95) on my visit, which has all kinds of deliciousness shovelled into it, including woody ’shrooms and grilled onions. After adding $5.90 for French fries and a soft drink, you’ll realise this isn’t the cheapest burger in town (the entry-level Omakase cheeseburger is a more reasonable $13.90), but I reckon it’s up there with the best. See more Singapore restaurant reviews.

While the food is as American as apple pie, there’s also a touch of Japan about Omakase. The name is Japanese for “let the chef decide”, the buns are sourced from a Japanese artisanal baker, and the beverage list includes an outstanding Japanese craft beer in the form of Coedo – try the dark Beniaka variety, made from sweet potatoes ($12.90).

Omakase is located in the newly revamped Turf City, now called The Grandstand, where loads of new dining options have opened recently. “All roads lead to Rome” goes the saying, but if you’re looking for a burger fix, I’d suggest following Bukit Timah Road to Sixth Avenue and turning north.

Shamus Sillar
 

 

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