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Restaurant Review: The Golden Peony at Conrad in Singapore

 

The Golden Peony
2 Temasek Boulevard
Conrad Centennial Hotel
+65 6432 7482
www.conradhotels.com
 

Tucked away in the Conrad Centennial hotel in the heart of downtown, the elegant décor exudes a tranquil ambiance for leisurely dining, which reflects the Cantonese-style menu itself – traditional with subtle, modern flourishes. The cuisine is best enjoyed over a lingering, quiet evening with good company, and the doting service facilitates that.

Almost everything on the menu is delectable, and the set meals, devised for one person or groups of up to ten, allow you to sample most of what’s offered. A cursory scan of the menu was all my companion and I needed to order – simply, we each had a set meal and shared. This allowed us to try fourteen or so dishes.

Although we left feeling satiated, the one drawback was that when we found one dish we loved, it was a small portion. If you order individual items, ask for generous servings of the wasabi prawns, the Golden Peony’s signature dish. This fusion creation is surely some of the most inventive, succulent fare that will hit your tastebuds. And the fat prawns themselves were very fresh.

Other dishes worth trying are the pan-fried sea perch with a fragrant orange sauce, the braised beancurd with bok choy, and seafood fried rice – a ubiquitous dish at any Chinese eatery, but done here with rich flavour. If you’re a lover of both coffee and fish, you’ll like this peculiar combo in the mocha-smoked salmon. We were also served two kinds of shark-fin soup (one of them featuring shark cartilage), a pricey delicacy on most Chinese menus, but an affordable treat in this set meal.

The executive chef, Chung Ho Shi, has crafted a refined menu that artfully blends traditional Cantonese fare enough with novel embellishments to balance the Golden Peony’s conservative personality. It’s city dining without the city pace.

 

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