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Restaurant review: Kinara in Singapore

Kinara (no longer at this location, check thekinaragroup.com
31 Cuppage Terrace
(+65) 6735 7622
 

Kinara describes its menu as “North Indian shore cuisine”, and the Cuppage Terrace outlet is the newest of this group’s eateries – others include Kinara Boat Quay and Kinara Holland Village.

As at all Cuppage Terrace restaurants, you can eat indoors or alfresco. Alfresco is more fun for people-watching – next door is the Kazbar (Middle Eastern cuisine) to one side and Bobby’s (American) to the other.

The only thing we found wrong with the North Indian food – and it’s a tiny gripe – was that that papadums had been left in the humid air to become flaccid. Everything else was fresh and delicious.

Kingfisher beer washed down starters of caraway-seed-flavoured kekra crab cakes ($7.50) and kurkure murgh, spice-marinated and deep-fried chicken strips. Next time, I’d have tandoori instead: there was a good selection from $17.

Main courses of gosht vindaloo ($18) and palak paneer ($14) were spot on: the lamb an authentic Goan specialty worlds away from the over-spiced abomination of the same name that is dished up by thousands of mediocre UK Indian restaurants; the spinach dish fresh, rich and buttery. Our black dahl makhni ($13.50) had been simmered on the tandoor (oven) to excellent effect, and the saffron rice ($6.50) was perfect.

Roy’s kulfi (Indian ice cream, all desserts $6) made with fresh mango, and my goolab jamun (milk dumplings) were an indulgently sticky finish to a meal that reminded me why we love Indian food.

 

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