The lure of the black-and-white bungalow is appealing to many expats. But for British tour guide CAREY COOKSON, the historical significance of these colonial homes ran a lot deeper. Here she tells us all about living and raising the next generation in a little slice of Singapore history.
About this black-and-white bungalow
Size: Two-bedroom detached house
Location: 2 Pender Road
Who lives there? David and Carey, Clementine (2), Teddy (5 months), helper Rose, and naughty Jack Russell Pip (3)
What brings you to Singapore, and how do you make a living here?
I’m from the UK originally and met my husband David while living and working in London. Just three days after we got married we moved to Singapore for his job. David had been an expat child in Malaysia but for me this was my first long-term stint abroad and I couldn’t wait! The timing seemed perfect and we were both excited to start an Asia adventure together.
While in the UK, I worked as a Blue Badge Tour Guide and it’s a career I have continued in Singapore – I work as a Singapore Tourism Board accredited tourist guide (@ToursByCarey). It’s a vocation I love. I read History at Edinburgh University and have always had an interest in history, arts and culture – so it’s a job that rarely feels like work. It’s rewarding to meet all sorts of people, find out where they are from and bring Singapore history to life for them.
Have you always harboured a desire to live in a black-and-white bungalow?
Considering my passion for the past, it was probably only a matter of time until we moved into one. Even when we were in our serviced apartment I visited quite a few friends in black-and-white houses and we were tempted to take the plunge. But at that stage we didn’t really understand the bidding system and opted for a soft landing in a condo in Bukit Timah. We loved the area and it was a great start to Singapore life. But before long we made it a hobby to check out all the different black-and-white clusters around Singapore and weigh up the pros and cons of each.
What made this particular black-and-white bungalow stand out to you?
Our black-and-white couldn’t be more perfect from a historical point of view. It’s one of the earlier timber and brick houses built in 1919 and retains many of its original architectural and colonial features. It was built by the renowned architectural firm of the day called Swan & Maclaren who are most famous for building Raffles Hotel. They built a number of important buildings and monuments during the colonial period such as the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall, the Cenotaph, the Goodwood Hotel and many, many more. I can’t help feeling proud to be living in a building that is part of Singapore’s architectural heritage.
History aside, it’s a magical place to live. The colonial architecture is incredibly open and airy with a beautiful view of greenery and wildlife from our sitting room. We have a resident kingfisher who makes a regular appearance and a distinctive shriek!
Tell us more about the Singapore history of these grand colonial homes!
Most of the black-and-white houses in Singapore were built to house those working for the British Administration. Our house and the others on Pender Road are an exception to that rule. They were built as corporate housing for the employees of the Eastern Extension Telegraph Company established by Sir John Pender. He was responsible for connecting the world with the commercial cable, the internet of its day! He helped lay the cable under the Atlantic to connect America and Britain and extend cables out in the East.
One of the downsides of black-and-white bungalows is they were built for a different era when the occupants’ children lived away in England at boarding school and houseguests were a rarity. As such, they didn’t need lots of bedrooms and some very big black-and-white houses often lack the number you would expect and need in such a big property. Ours is one of these with technically only two bedrooms but as our family grows the lure and charm of the property keeps us here and we will make it work one way or another.
How would you define your home style?
I adore interiors and could easily spend, spend, spend on soft furnishings! I love pattern and colour, which David hates and so we are in a constant tug of war. But style-wise we’ve not had to do much to this house as the natural feel and heritage of the building is quite special.
Where’s your go-to space at home, and what draws you there time and again?
I love our attap in the garden – it’s a great entertaining space and we often host there. My favourite evenings are with the girls, playing mahjong or poker around a table in a jungle setting that feels a million miles away from a city.
Where do you source your furniture and décor from?
It’s been collected gradually along the way from everywhere we’ve lived and travelled. Fabric-wise I’ve bought quite a bit back with me from the UK and squeezed it into suitcases much to David’s annoyance – especially as I’ve managed to break a suitcase or two!
I have a real weakness for bone inlay and a Hankie Pankie Home patterned tablecloth. I’m not very green-fingered so I’ve embraced fake plants and flowers in Singapore and love my artificial lilies from Silk Flowers Singapore; you cannot tell the difference and they have fooled a number of visitors.
Do you have any special art or furniture pieces?
We have some very atmospheric Cornish art which is a welcome reminder of UK windswept beaches that I really miss in this tropical climate. Another favourite British artist is ex-Singapore resident Piers Bourke who has a very modern and fun style. He created our stamp of the Queen’s head.
I love our new headboard in Christopher Farr fabric made by Mrs Bennett here in Singapore. We also have a luggage rack that used to reside in Raffles Hotel before it was refurbished – thank you Hock Siong, the second-hand furniture company.
What is it about Singapore that makes your life here enjoyable?
I’ve been saying for years that one of my favourite things about Singapore is that I rarely get stressed. My commute to work is always easy and short, most of our friends live within 15 minutes of us and our wonderful helper Rose makes life with young children ten times less hectic. On my tours, visitors always comment how surprisingly deep and rich the culture is. The Battlebox, National Museum, Chinatown, the Urban Redevelopment Authority “URA” and Changi Chapel and Museum are all unique in their own way.
What do you love about living in this iconic black-and-white bungalow?
Wherever we end up, this house will always hold special memories for us given we’ve had so many firsts here. Our puppy Pip joined us shortly after we moved in. And our first child Clementine was brought home here from NUH. Most recently, our second child, a little boy called Teddy, joined the clan in November. Although the house is a lot fuller than when we first moved in, it’s a great place to bring up a family, with a big garden and outdoor spaces.
Carey’s Recommendations
Local Food
- Kampong Glam eateries (“my father-in-law wolfs down murtabak at either Victory or Zam Zam”)
- Kim Choo (“for special rice dumplings in the heart of Joo Chiat”) | kimchoo.com
- Quentin’s Singapore (“for sugee cake”) | quentins.com.sg
- Kuay Guan Huat (“for popiah”) | joochiatpopiah.com
Restaurants & Cafés
- Greenwood Fish Market (“our date place used to be the Bukit Timah branch, but now we pop to the sister restaurant at Sentosa Quayside; it’s dog friendly and the seafood is incredible”) | greenwoodfishmarket.com
- Culina (“a guilty pleasure is a late lunch at the counter and a takeaway bakery treat”) | culina.com.sg
- KOMA (“my favourite restaurant – I love the interior, exciting cocktails and delicious food”) | komasingapore.com
- Tiong Bahru Bakery (“for their ham and cheese croissant”) | tiongbahrubakery.com
Furniture & Homeware
- Silk Flowers (“for high quality artificial flowers”) | silkflowerssingapore.com
- Hankie Pankie Home (“for beautiful tablescaping”) | hankiepankietables.com
- Hemma (“for garden furniture”) | hemma.sg
Hair, Beauty & Fashion
- The Hair Lounge (“for colour, cut and keratin straightening. I remember when they started in Cluny Court and they’ve grown the business whilst retaining a friendly homely salon feel. Plus, they can always get you an appointment.”) | thehairlounge.sg
- The Big Blow (“for a party or a night-out hairdo”) | thebigblow.com
- Auriga Spa at Capella (“for a spoiling massage or facial”) | capellahotels.com
- Kskinfacial (“for a quick facial on the go”) | kskinfacial.com/sg
- Apollonia (“the dress I chose to wear for this shoot”) | apolloniaonline.com
- Four Boys (“one of David’s favourite casual shirt brands”) | fourboys.co
Social Club
- Singapore Cricket Club (“David plays a lot of sport, and we love the atmosphere at SCC. It’s in a fantastic location in the Civic District and is a place I can take visitors for a well-earned cup of tea.”) | scc.org.sg
This article first appeared in the May 2024 edition of Expat Living. You can purchase the latest issue or subscribe so you never miss a copy!
To make the most of living in Singapore, read our latest City Guide here for free!
