As women, we have many things to fit into our lives including finding time for a makeup and beauty routine. But just how much time do we need to spend applying it? How much should we use? What products should we use and when? In this climate there’s also the question of which products stay on longer, and what will help them stay on longer.
Make up artist Charles de Silva recently came to talk the EL team to answer our questions and ended up streamlining the whole process for us. It’s actually a lot easier than you think and I can even manage to do it all in a couple of minutes now. He is a Bobby Brown and Mac fan. Personally I have had great success with Benefit (eyebrows and eyes), Make Up Forever (foundation) and Lancôme (mascara).
Here are just some of his tips and his suggested order of application to make the process easier for you, too.
|1.||Use a brush or a sponge to apply foundation, starting from your hairline downwards or inwards. The colour should be the same as your skin, not any darker or yellower. Remember to include the jaw line so the foundation doesn’t stop suddenly. You can use a powder after this but, with or without, you can pat your face lightly all over to make the foundation last longer.|
|2.||Apply blusher to the cheekbone and below, brushing from the middle of the cheek outwards.|
|3.||Eyebrows are key to framing your eyes – I learnt this a few years ago and it has made a huge difference to me. Use an eyebrow pencil to define them, starting midway along your eyebrows towards the outside.The inner (thicker) part of the eyebrow usually doesn’t need as much darkening or definition, but make sure both halves match when you’re finished.|
|4.||The glossier the lipsalve or lipstick, the larger your lips will look. Darker colours and matte lipsticks will make them look smaller. Charles gave us some different shades to use that we might never have picked but that really suited our skin tones. He recommends using a lip balm if lips are dry, and using a lip brush to apply lipstick, starting at the centre and making sure you go all the way to the corners. Do not apply lipstick and then rub your lips together; rarely is the top lip the same as the bottom lip.|
These are the key areas, but if you are going out you may like to add the following:
|5.||Before applying eye shadow, always shake the excess off your brush. You can put translucent powder under the eyes beforehand to catch any fallout from the eye shadow. Charles did absolute wonders with eyeliner to really draw out the colours in our eyes, but suggests using eyeshadow underneath the eye as a softer alternative to eyeliner for daytime use.|
|6.||Lastly, mascara. Make sure to apply plenty of mascara to the base of the lashes first to prevent eyelashes drooping and smudging under your eyes. Always apply mascara in a zigzag motion.|
Charles holds makeup sessions and parties for individuals, colleagues and groups of friends where he will talk you through techniques, colours and products.
Something else that has helped my beauty regime lately are the Therapeutic Dermatologic Formula (TDF) facial products. Although the moisturiser, AHA Revitalizing Lotion 10, feels pretty dry when applied,it still manages to moisturise. I find my foundation stays on a lot longer after using it, too. I use my Guinot day cream as a night cream, so I still get my fix of that – I love it.
As it contains AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), the lotion also has a peeling effect, so your old dead skin cells are constantly being removed. The texture of my skin has dramatically improved and I no longer have clogged pores and spots from using richer creams in this climate.
Before using the TDF home range products, I recommend getting a salon-strength peel like the TDF Glycolic Acid Peel. I thought one of my colleagues in the office was 10 years younger than she actually was, and she told me that she had regular peels. Her skin always had a healthy glow and was very clear.
Dr Calvin Chan at Wheelock Place performs these peels, and he sells the TDF home range too. He assesses your skin first in an infrared photo booth (which makes you feel really old because you can see all the damage) and gauges your skin sensitivity. For me, he chose a 20-percent-strength peel that is relatively mild but a safe starting point for most skins. If you have scarring and pitting you can increase the strength.
It itched but was much more tolerable than I had anticipated. Afterwards, my skin looked radiant and was much smoother and softer. I have been using the home therapy now for three months and am very pleased with the results. The itching caused by the moisturiser is a little annoying, so I mix it with a regular moisturiser at night-time. I started off with the AHA Revitalizing Lotion 10 and Cleanser 4 and am now using the Age Defense System range. Both ranges have excellent sun protection products too.
You do have to make sure you use plenty of sun-block, as removing the dead cells on a regular basis takes away this protective layer at the same time. Long-term use and overuse of products containing AHA could have downsides too; some blogs suggest thinning and oversensitivity of the skin, but if used in moderation I think it’s definitely worth it. I am using it on my neck and chest area and it helps reduce the crinkly look!
If you have found any makeup products that work well for you, do share your recommendations with us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Charles de Silva
Style by Charles
Dr Calvin Chan
Calvin Chan Aesthetic & Laser Clinic
501 Orchard Road
#05-11 Wheelock Place
6732 4981 | drcalvinchan.com
Looking for more beauty tips? We round up five ways to age gracefully.
By Rebecca Bisset
Want more? See our style & beauty section!