EL contributor FENELLA WOODHOUSE takes the long haul to South America, where she’s rewarded with fabulous food, festivals and family catchups.
It had been 10 years since I last set foot in Colombia. My husband is Colombian, and after years of promising his family we’d make the trip, we finally committed to ending 2025 properly – flying halfway across the world to celebrate the New Year with them.
I was excited but nervous. Colombia sits almost exactly on the opposite side of the world from Singapore, and with no direct flights, it’s a massive journey.
Door-to-door it took 30 hours: Singapore to New York, a five-hour layover at JFK, then another six hours to Medellín. Long? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
Medellín – the city of eternal spring
We spent four nights in Medellín, known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its incredible year-round weather. The city sits in a valley surrounded by mountains on all sides and even though it was my second time visiting, I’m always shocked at the sheer size of it. Coming from Singapore, I’m used to the flat drive home from Changi Airport. But in Medellín, the buildings just keep climbing up the hillsides.
We based ourselves in El Poblado. It’s the most popular area for visitors, filled with leafy streets, boutiques and restaurants. We even found a CrossFit gym nearby where my last-minute Spanish lessons came in handy!
One of my favourite activities was riding the Metrocable up to Parque Arví, a nature reserve on the outskirts of the city, on New Year’s Day. Built in 2004, the cable car connects the isolated hillside comunas to the rest of Medellín, giving those communities better access to work, schools and healthcare.
As we drifted slowly over the rooftops, we got a little snapshot of life from above: couples dancing salsa in the street, families cooking huge cauldrons of hearty sancocho (a traditional soup eaten on New Year’s Day), and children playing football among the graffitied houses. It gave me a bird’s-eye view of what real life in Medellín looks like.
Safety is always the first thing people ask about. Locals say “no dar papaya”, which translates to “don’t give papaya”; it means don’t make yourself a target. So, be sensible, don’t walk alone at night, and don’t flash your valuables – the same as any big city. It certainly helped that I was with my Spanish-speaking husband and his family, which also helped us avoid any tourist haggling!
A day in Guatapé
If you’re ever in Medellín, I highly recommend travelling to Guatapé, a traditional Colombian pueblo about two hours from the city. Arguably the most colourful town in the country, every building is brightly painted with zócalos that tell the history of the community. We spent the afternoon wandering the cobbled streets and doing a healthy amount of shopping in the artisan stores.
Once the afternoon heat had cooled, we tackled the infamous El Peñol rock. After climbing all 740 steps, we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding lakes. At the top, vendors were selling mango biche (unripe green mango served with lime juice and salt). It was surprisingly refreshing after the hike.
Salento – into coffee country
After the city, I was ready for some quiet time in the countryside. We travelled seven hours south by coach to Colombia’s coffee region, where we stayed at my husband’s uncle’s finca – a brightly painted farmhouse in the hills. Mornings were slow: lots of coffee on the patio, long walks and some much-needed rest. Everything was almost perfect… apart from the lack of hot water, which meant my morning showers were freezing cold (and very quick!).
The highlight was hiking through the Cocora Valley. This place is home to the world’s tallest palm trees, the Quindío wax palm – some specimens reach up to 60 metres and shoot straight into the clouds. After a 3km uphill trail with views across the valley, we rewarded ourselves with hot local coffee and my husband’s favourite snack – pan de guava, a warm bread roll stuffed with sweet guava jam.
Manizales – a different Colombia
Most tourists don’t end up in Manizales, but it’s where my husband grew up. We timed it to arrive during the Feria de Manizales, one of Colombia’s biggest annual festivals.
The feria is a week of concerts, art markets, parades, and food – we even caught a glimpse of the 54th International Coffee Queen Pageant. Some of the best eating of the whole trip happened here: rich sancocho stews, freshly grilled arepas, and my personal favourite, plátano maduro asado con queso – sweet grilled plantain with melted cheese. We spent a lot of time just wandering the streets where my husband grew up, meeting uncles, aunties and cousins.
By the end of the festival, we were exhausted. So, we finished the trip with a bit of pampering at Termales El Otoño. Located just 20 minutes outside the city, the hotel has therapeutic hot springs and a spa. It was the perfect way to wind down before the very long journey back to Asia.
It was a special experience to connect with my husband’s culture and family. We’re so used to living at such a fast pace here in Singapore that it was refreshing to be somewhere that puts the simple things front and centre – music, good food and family. I’m already looking forward to going back. And I won’t be waiting another ten years!
This article on things to do in Colombia, South America first appeared in the June 2026 issue of Expat Living magazine. You can buy the latest mag or an annual subscription, or read the digital version for free now.
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