AYAN MEHRA is in Grade 11 at the Singapore American School, and while he’s now back to a regular term routine, his summer was little short of action-packed. Along with attending a summer school at Yale University in the US, he joined his dad trekking Mount Kilimanjaro. Ayan tells his story of mountain climbing in Africa here.
In July, I had the experience of a lifetime trekking Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest point in Africa and the tallest self-standing peak in the world (5,895 metres). Climbing the mountain was a bucket list thing for my dad; he’s turning 50 this year, so in the words of Dylan Thomas, he was “raging against the dying light” by attempting the mountain climb before his big birthday! This is my eight-day journal from trekking Mount Kilimanjaro; join me in the adventure.
Day 1: Mountain rainforest
Our journey started with a briefing from the local Kili expert guides on what to expect. Then, we set off. Green mossy jungle trees shaded the path while dew-covered brambles sprawled across the forest floor, leaving almost no soil visible.
We saw a dizzying array of birds along the climb, helped by John, a member of our mountain climbing group who is an avid birder; he would constantly identify any birds seen with his trusted binoculars.
Along the hike, we learned two new phrases crucial for acclimatisation and hydration: “pole pole” (Swahili for “slowly, slowly” – the best way to walk to conserve energy) and “sippy sippy” (a reminder to drink water). In just three hours we reached the first campsite, Mti Mkubwa, which sat in a clearing on the forest floor. After a meal cooked over a campfire and a tutorial on using the portable toilet, we cosied into our tents, bracing for a chilly night.
Day 2: Rainforest to moorlands
We woke up at 5.30am, heading up the rainforest once more. About an hour and a half into our beautiful climb, we reached the heath moorland zone, marked by shorter trees and a drier climate.
The rise through this transition zone consisted of three steep ascents taking place consecutively. The third ascent was especially steep, winding along the mountain side for an hour. My dad couldn’t stop asking “How much longer?” during this section! Finally, after about six hours of hiking, we arrived at the Shira 1 camp in the moorlands at 3,600 metres.
Shira 1 lies in the collapsed crater of a volcanic eruption. It was cold and windy here, but it’s a magnificent location, with crater walls in the distance and heath shrubs all around.
Day 3: Moorlands
We woke at 6am, which became the norm going forward. It was a stunning morning. The sky blended purple and blue, the crater rim providing an idyllic frame for the morning light show.
After breakfast, we headed across the crater and ascended the other side of the lip. The path rose gently with increasingly scarce vegetation visible, until we found ourselves in the alpine desert at more than 4,000 metres up. After a few hours, with breaks for “sippy sippy” and snacks, we arrived at our destination: Moir Hut. At 4,200 metres above sea level, the location had little vegetation to protect us from the elements, so it was one of our harshest campsites; violent wind threatened to un-pitch our tents at any moment. Nonetheless, the starry sky more than compensated for the howling wind and biting cold.
Day 4: Moorlands to alpine desert
Our goal this day was to get to Lava Tower at 4,600 metres. This was to be the highest elevation before the summit – a place with half as much oxygen as at sea level. This was designed to acclimatise us before descending again. After trudging our way up the gentle slope for four hours, we reached the signpost. Luckily, I avoided most signs of altitude sickness.
After lunch and spending time to acclimatise, we descended down to Barranco camp. The path was rocky, and sharp volcanic stones made the journey treacherous. I longed for the turfed paths of the first day. After three hours, we saw the camp in the distance, vegetation crawling up the sides of the valley.
Day 5: The Barranco Wall
This was the day we confronted the daunting Barranco Wall. From afar, it looks like an unscalable cliff face. But even up close, it at first seemed impossible to hike. However, guided by our expert team, we tackled the scramble, including the nerve-wracking “kissing rock” section. Here, hikers press their cheek to the rock while making sure to avoid the 30 metre fall. Member after member, our group crossed this section, discomfort on every face. To me, however, it was exhilarating, not terrifying.
At last, after two hours, we reached the top, and our efforts were rewarded with incredible views and a strong sense of accomplishment.
Day 6: Alpine desert
The hike to Barafu camp, our last stop before the summit attempt, was relatively easy compared to previous days. However, anticipation for the summit dominated our thoughts. Dinner was early, and we tried to rest before the midnight ascent. It felt like the night before an important exam.
Day 7: Summiting a snow-capped mountain peak
At midnight we set off, our headlamps illuminating a small circle ahead of us. We scaled the bare, steep rock ridge in the middle of the night. I looked up during one of our rest stops, and saw a beautiful sight: all around was complete darkness except a trail of lights attempting to scale the mountain: a stairway to heaven.
With each step harder because of low oxygen levels, after six hours we finally reached Stella Point, on the crater rim at the top of the mountain. Fatigue consumed me, but the magical sunrise compelled me. The sun peeked over the horizon to illuminate the sky with an orange hue atop the ocean of clouds blanketing the forest.
When the lack of oxygen rendered me a bit delirious in my movements, my group helped steady me, and encouraged me to carry on. We walked along the rim for another 90 minutes to Uhuru Peak at 5,895 meters. Though much easier than the climb up, the trek through the glaciers seemed impossibly strenuous because of my physical state. Through my stupor, however, I touched the signboard and marked my victory.
I savoured the moment for a short while, as I couldn’t be there for long in the high altitude. Sliding all the way down the mountain was hard; I had used all my energy on the way up. Luckily, you could “ski” down the loose gravel using hiking poles.
Arriving at camp, I feared my legs would stop following the cruel orders of my conscience. I was that tired. But, the day wasn’t over yet, as we packed up and set off for Millennium camp at 3,900 meters. It was a two-hour downhill walk.
Day 8: The final descent trekking Mount Kilimanjaro
We started early and completed our descent in four and a half hours, retracing our steps through the varying vegetation zones. Reaching the gate and signing out marked the end of our epic journey.
Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro was the hardest but most rewarding experience of my life, offering a profound way to experience Africa.
This article about mountain climbing and trekking Mount Kilimanjaro first appeared in the October 2024 edition of Expat Living. You can purchase the latest issue or subscribe, so you never miss a copy!
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