Chaps, take note: when it comes to a posh event, only a tuxedo will make the cut. Jeremy Yip from CYC The Custom Shop clues us in on the basics.
So, what’s the key difference between a normal suit and a tuxedo?
The main difference is the use of satin. Traditionally, tuxedos have satin on the lapels, buttons and pocket trim, as well as a satin stripe down the sides of the trousers.
How and when is a tuxedo traditionally worn?
It is worn to a prom, a wedding or any other event where “black tie” is called for. The jacket is usually worn over a white shirt with a pleated front or a piqué bib front, along with a bow tie, a formal waistcoat or cummerbund and black lace-up Oxford shoes or pumps. For an edgier look, a tuxedo can be worn with a black shirt with pleats. A shirt with a winged collar gives a more formal look.
What are the most important things to ask your tailor about the fit?
The secret to any good suit is the fit. There’s no point buying an expensive designer suit that doesn’t fit your body properly, so tailoring can be crucial, even if it’s just a small tweak. Remember that off-the-rack tuxedos are normally made for a standard body type. Important things to note are:
- Does the jacket have thin or thick shoulder padding?
Remember: shoulders with more padding have a retro look that works better for longer, full-cut jackets.
- How big are the armholes of the jacket cut?
A slightly smaller, higher armhole gives you more freedom of movement. In addition, it gives your jacket a better, neater silhouette than a larger armhole would.
- What’s the cut of the trousers like?
A tapered leg bottom and shorter length that gives very minimal or no break at the bottom of the trousers looks sharper and is currently very trendy.
Do you have any style tips for the most contemporary look?
Personally, I find the double-breasted tuxedo with wide peak lapels in a modern cut very appealing. For a less conventional look, you could consider having the jacket made in a patterned fabric like jacquard, or in a colour like burgundy, midnight blue or graphite grey, and match it with black trousers.
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