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Restaurant review: WOLF on Gemmill Lane, Singapore

By: Beate Baldry

WOLF
18 Gemmill Lane
6557 2224

As Chef Fergus Henderson of London’s Michelin-starred St. John puts it, “It’s only polite, really, if you knock an animal on the head, to eat it all: tripe, heart, feet, ears, head, tail.” If that be true, The Privé Group’s latest venture, WOLF, is very polite indeed, being Singapore’s first restaurant to offer nose-to-tail dining.

 

WOLF has its den just off buzzing Club Street. Meat hooks re-modelled as lamps light the way; the wolf himself greets you as you stumble in, his face impressively chiselled into the cement wall by artist Sean Dunston. In the kitchen, sharpening her knives, is Chef Alysia Chan who has previously worked at the aforementioned St. John.

The food takes you straight to the heart of nose-to-tail dining, with dishes like pig’s ear salad ($20), grilled beef hearts ($25) and ox tongue ($38). You can share half a roasted pig’s head ($78) if you order it two days in advance. For the less daring there are mackerel fish cakes ($18), highly recommended lemony sweetbreads and mushroom risotto ($34), pan-seared sea bass ($28) and ribeye steak ($48). Traditional comfort puddings include rhubarb trifle ($14) and banoffee pie ($14).  

Sweetbreads and mushroom risotto 

 The wine list is impressive, carrying over 150 labels from French and Italian to New World and including a few by the glass.

In the offing is a nose-to-tail degustation menu, which is set to take hungry diners through the entire animal, course by course.

Must-try Dish: Sweetbreads and mushroom risotto

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