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Restaurant review: The Pelican at One Fullerton in Singapore

By: Verne Maree

 

The Pelican

#01-01 One Fullerton

6438 0400 | thepelican.com.sg

 

Singapore is awash with seafood restaurants, but none with a menu remotely like this. Take The Pelican platter (serves 2 to 3; $99): live oysters, clams, swordfish ceviche, New Zealand conch salad, Dungeness crab and a whole lobster, its head filled with a stuffing to spread on fresh seaweed sourdough bread.

Along with the plentiful strands of nori seaweed in our Pelicillin cocktail ($24) – a malty, peaty, briny blend of Lagavulin, Drambuie and more: what you might expect to find in the dregs of a tipsy Scottish pelican’s bill – we can almost feel our iodine levels rising. It’s just one of a dazzling drinks list created by group beverage manager Richard Gilliam.

Ravishing appetisers include a smoking-hot cod’s tongue casserole ($26) with thyme, roast garlic and pork scratchings. They’re not actually piscatorial tongues, we’re told, but the fine-textured bits under the lower lip of the fish. Black-peppered candied bacon with brown sugar and lime ($18) comes with superfine potato fries – “I like fries,” admits Dan, and who doesn’t?

Baked snapper pie ($36) with asparagus, mushroom and puff pastry, is Keith Loh’s homage to his old restaurant Whitebait & Kale, which closed. My favourite from that restaurant’s menu in 2004, the dish is even better now. Our choice from The Pelican’s wood-fired grill is a thick, meaty skate wing chop ($32) with burnt lemon butter.

 

Double chocolate whoopie pie ($16), a delicious pina colada sherbet ($14) and outstanding Oriole-style coffees round things off.

We’ve already been back with family visitors for another seafood platter and to try the Boston crab cakes, smoked haddock, and potato and salt cod mash.  For ambience, marina view, killer cocktails and superb cuisine, this one’s a winner.

 

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