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Restaurant review: Saint Pierre in Quayside Isle, Sentosa

Saint Pierre
#01-15 Quayside Isle
31 Ocean Way
Sentosa
6438 0887

Saint Pierre is dead… long live Saint Pierre! After the hectic flurry of empire-building that saw his restaurant group almost double in size, and then the closure of Saint Pierre, his French modern dining flagship in Magazine Road, Chef Emmanuel Stroobant is back in the kitchen – and he’s cooking up a storm.

This was our first visit to Quayside Isle, an inviting stretch of eateries starting just next to the W Sentosa Singapore. Saint Pierre itself is up on the second level for a lovely yet air-conditioned marina view. From the stairs, mellifluous Gallic tones charm our ears even before the three suave young Frenchmen in blue jeans and black jackets do so in person: David the maitre d’, Geoffrey the sommelier, plus another lovely creature who’d be instantly employable on the basis of his eyelashes alone.

 

The new incarnation of Saint Pierre has a very different feel from its long-lived predecessor. It’s a lot less stuffy. “The old Saint Pierre was very stiff and formal,” admits Emmanuel’s lovely wife, Edina Hong. Here, it’s a lighter touch in more than one sense of the word.

“We changed our pricing to be more affordable; we want to be part of the community. We’re not cheap, but we’re definitely not expensive.” Starters $25 to $38 – more for the foie gras; mains from $35 to $48 – but $68 for the roast lobster; desserts from $12 to $18; plus a selection of cheeses.

After wanting everything on the menu, it didn’t take much to convince Roy and me to opt for the 10-course degustation menu ($148), which changes every day. Even less to a add on wine-pairing ($98).

 

Highlights included Japanese momataro tomato with Iberico ham and frozen mozzarella meringue, paired with Champagne; an exquisitely pungent spear of white asparagus topped with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and caviar, paired with a sauvignon blanc from NZ’s North Island; foie gras terrine with black truffle, wild mushrooms and brioche with an off-dry Aussie riesling; roasted lobster with wild fennel, along with an Australian pinot noir. You get the idea. Turbot was followed by cod, and cod by lamb, but I was out of the race even before we got to Grandma Stroobant’s flourless chocolate cake.

Must-try Dishes: White asparagus topped with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and caviar

Verne Maree

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