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Restaurant review: Raffles Grill on Beach Road, Singapore

By: Richard Lenton

I love watching cookery shows on TV. Cooking has become the new rock ‘n’ roll, with vibrant young chefs transforming basic roasting and frying into something akin to an art form.

However, what I can’t stand is sitting at home with a burnt omelette on my lap watching a chef-cum-scientist fry eggs with a Bunsen burner and make puddings out of root vegetables. It’s pretentious, gimmicky nonsense.

Thankfully, the newly appointed Executive Sous Chef at Raffles Grill, Mickael Le Calvez, leaves the test tubes and teat pipettes in the laboratory, and instead delivers beautifully crafted, stylish, intensely flavoursome, contemporary French cuisine. Raffles Grill is, of course, part of Raffles Hotel, and this high-end, refined food is very much in keeping with the traditions of the iconic building.

Pigeon lightly smoked with Jasmine Tea

Le Calvez’s menu includes delicious and sumptuous dishes such as scampi ravioli, poached lobster salad, soft-boiled egg slow-cooked at 64 degrees, golden black cod supreme, beef tenderloin with Tam Ky pepper and a ginger cherry teriyaki sauce, and glazed pigeon.

My good lady and I also indulged in the wine pairing option. I tend to drink white wine here in Singapore, but the Tolpuddle Pinot Noir was special – juicy, fresh and slightly minty even.

Raffles grill confit crispy baby pig leg

After a luxurious dessert of apple, slow poached in dried orange, lemon, wild cherries and hibiscus, served with almond kaffir lime crumble and rhubarb ice cream, we sat back with a vintage cognac and made a little wish (in fact, a very big wish) that we could afford to eat here every night of the week.

 

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