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Restaurant review: One Rochester at Rochester Park in Singapore

 

One Rochester

1 Rochester Park

+65 6773 0070

www.onerochester.com

Someone – an Italian, I think – once told me never to mix seafood and cheese. I’ve subsequently remained paranoid about Parmesan ending up on my spaghetti alle vongole. Then again, I rarely shy away from a fish pie, even one with a cheesy crust; or oysters au gratin, for that matter; and few things in this world are better than a good lobster Mornay. Maybe there’s nothing to fear in the fish-and-fromage combo after all?

The 1-Rochester Group’s executive chef Christopher Millar is definitely unafraid. His signature salad features tiger prawns and Persian feta. “A bit out of left field,” says Christopher about the pairing. And that’s not the half of it: along with these two key ingredients, you’ll find a rojak-like mix of romaine lettuce, pomegranate, couscous and mint. The result? One of the tastiest dishes I’ve tried on this island.

The salad features in One Rochester’s dining concept called Roast, which riffs off the idea of an extended family sitting down to a Sunday roast, scooping freely from plates of meats and sides.

Roast represents home-style dining at its best, and $65 per person buys you a succession of hearty dishes to share. The nibble platter has a dainty name, but don’t be fooled. A hefty slice of guinea-fowl terrine shares the space with crudités, crumbed stuffed olives, dips and potato skins, the latter balancing dollops of sour cream and ocean trout caviar in their curves.

Next, after the aforementioned salad, comes any number of pastas and mains – the size of the selection depends on the number of diners. We were a table of only two, but it didn’t stop the arrival of a twice-baked Gruyere soufflé and a baby chicken wrapped in prosciutto with a truffle stuffing and a quince and pear relish.

Best of the lot was the braised Wagyu beef brisket sitting on a bed of dreamy Paris mash. Get this: the potatoes in the mash are stirred for 45 minutes. You can get to Malaysia in less time.

Our meal ended with the “Grande Assiette” – no, that’s not the French term for “large arse”, though it may as well be, considering how overflowing this dessert platter was with decadent panna cotta, Pavlova and cake. Five mini-puddings in all. Awesome!

 

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