14 Greenwood Avenue
The name translates as “the plate”, and you won’t be served on the same style of plate in the same meal nor will your plate match that of your dining companion. It’s part of the restaurant’s quirkiness; it leaves fine dining to the guys with skinny moustaches and cloths draped over their forearms, while pouring its gusto into rustic French food.
We started with assorted hors-d’oeuvres ($24) served on a trolley that was rolled right to our table. There’s charcuterie, terrine maison and six salads; choose one or all of them – we chose the salads, relishing each bite of the bean salad with mustard and shallots, pork rillettes and rosette de Lyon, a cured French sausage. The Chavignol goat cheese salad ($18) is good for light eaters and the pan-fried duck liver salad ($28) with beetroot and walnut dressing for heartier appetites. But don’t miss the Burgundy snails ($18); each half dozen ordered is served with three flavours – traditional garlic butter, red peppercorn and – a surprise – curry.
The steak au poivre ($36) was a beautiful cut of meat flambéed with cognac and served with pomme frites. Yet the restaurant is making its name with the choucroute royale ($38 per person, for a minimum of two), a sizzling Alsatian-style skillet of smoked pork knuckle, lean pork fillet, pork bacon and three types of sausages atop a mound of sauerkraut that is much less sauer than its German counterpart. Dijon mustard and a glass of riesling are de rigueur with this dish.
The Chamoine’s pancake ($14) is a delightful praline-stuffed crêpe topped with Armagnac, and the pistachio crème br û lée ($12) – the flavour changes weekly – is simply divine, not to mention generously sized for two.
Try the L’Assiette Formula while it lasts – get any starter, main course and dessert on the menu for just $52.