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For Guys

How to spot a well tailored suit

Bespoke suits 

We can’t all have Tom Ford (that’s the man who designed Daniel Craig’s 007 suits) on speed dial but that doesn’t mean we should be satisfied with Bugsy Malone-style, poorly fitting suits. To inject a bit of Bond sophistication into your wardrobe follow these points from master tailor Nash Chugani of The Black Label

The key elements are the structure and construction. The bespoke suit, the “sartoriale”, is the most traditional style where all pieces of the suit are sewn according to your measurements. 

The jacket should hug your shoulders nicely, shoulder pads should not protrude and you should be able to button up the jacket with ample room for a fist between the button and chest. Then, with your fingers cupped, you must just be able to touch the end of your shirt sleeves. Ideally the jacket sleeves will only expose between a quarter and half an inch of your shirt cuffs, and the bottom of your suit jacket should finish at the same height as your knuckles if your arms are by your sides.

And, there’s no such thing as sexy ankle cleavage in a suit – trouser hems should meet the heel of the shoe and rest on the third lace hole.

 “A gentleman should only wear woollen suits,” says Nash, with Worsted wools (fabric made from the strongest wool threads) your best bet for a great suit. 

If you want to set off your suit with a trendy bow tie, we’ve only gone and made a step by step guide to tying it up (like a man, no clip on business), haven’t we?

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