Whether it be for a new corporate role or attending cocktail parties, here are some pointers to bear in mind when picking a suit – or, better yet, getting one custom-made.
The Tall one
Goal: To prevent a tall and slim physique from looking too gangly
•Wear lighter colours to add width to your torso.
•Wear a two-button suit with high-cut lapels.
•Have jacket shoulders extend slightly past your natural shoulder width.
•Show the minimal amount of cuff.
•A slim fit is good, but avoid tight-fitting suits, which give a lankier appearance.
•Avoid suit jackets with thin lapels and built-up square shoulders.
•Don’t wear your suit jacket unbuttoned; better to take it off altogether.
•Don’t wear extra-slim ties that only elongate the torso
The Heavy Set
Goal: To emphasise
•Dress in dark, solid colours or thin stripes.
•Suit pants should be worn at the belly button or just above; wear braces (restart the trend!) if needs be to avoid fastening your pants above or below your belly if this is a problem area.
•Keep your jacket buttoned unless you’re sitting down.
•Don’t wear double-breasted suits as they draw attention to the midsection.
•Don’t wear a roomy suit – it gives a sloppy appearance. On that note, don’t go un-tucked.
• Avoid pattered or checked shirts: keep it simple and elegant
THE SHORT & SWEET
Goal: To lengthen a short torso.
• Go for solid colours or thin stripes for an illusion of height and leanness.
• Show a dash of shirt cuff to elongate arms.
• Ask the tailor to set the jacket breast pocket a little higher than normal, the hip pockets lower, and have a lower button stance; these all elongate the silhouette.
• Choose peaked lapels to elongate your physique.
•Don’t wear double-breasted suits as the double set of buttons adds width and the extra material adds bulk.
•Don’t wear a longer suit jacket – it shortens the legs.
• The less going on, the taller you’ll appear, so swap the fat tie for a slim one and ditch the belt altogether.
Goal: To accommodate a toned and bulky frame, without making the lower physique and waist appear large as well.
•Two-button jackets nipped in at the waist will complement your tapered torso.
•For thicker necks, wear low-collar shirts
•Don’t wear peaked lapels or padded shoulders; your chest and shoulders are broad enough.
•Aim for correct sizing rather than just settling for a size too large.
To tailor your suit for a better fit, or to order a new one,
head to Sam’s Custom Tailors, 02-55 Far East Plaza.
For more see our Style section